Sumoll is Catalonia’s Poulsard or Pinot Noir, a quite delicate but intense variety that’s more about acidity and perfume than fruit. In the hands of a careful producer, the results are usually very lovely. Toni’s wine is as concentrated as it gets, with fabulous finesse. It comes from an entirely different terroir, high altitude. But only around 300 bottles are produced.

Bages, Manresa, north-west of Barcelona.

Sumoll. 12.5%