A pétillant of rare finesse, the Palomino here comes entirely from Fernando’s cherished parcel of old vines in ‘La Charanga’. The wine rested for 72 months on the lees before disgorgement, rendering a vibrant, nuanced and invigorating wine that sings with complex scents of orange, wildflowers, sea breeze and brine. Gently saline and full of dry, chalky minerals, it is hard to beat alongside some pristine shellfish. Made in tiny quantities with no additions, these are wines of striking purity that show the region in a different guise. Gently saline, luminous and fine, they are unlike any we have tried. Andalusia, Spain. 11% ABV.